Moroccan Fish Tagine

It's interesting to compare these two recipes - first one from Mourad Mazouz the Moroccan owner of the excellent Momo restaurant in London and the second by the excellent fish chef Rick Stein (as seen on his show Fruits of the Sea)

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FISH TAGINE - Mourad Mazouz
Serves 4

2 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp cumin, plus extra
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large preserved lemon, or two small ones, halved
1 tbsp lemon juice
4x250g fish steaks (sea bass, cod or haddock), cut across the fish
3 carrots, sliced
4 potatoes, sliced
2 tomatoes, sliced
2 green peppers, deseeded and sliced
2 cabbage leaves

* Mix together the coriander, garlic, spices, oil, preserved lemon and lemon juice. Place the fish in a shallow bowl and pour over the marinade. Leave in the fridge for 2 hours.
* Blanch the carrot and potato slices in boiling water for 4 minutes, then drain.
* Remove the fish from the marinade (keep this), scraping off any bits.
* Place the carrot pieces on the bottom of a tagine pot or lidded casserole, place the fish on top, then tuck the potato slices around and on top of it. Do the same with the tomatoes and peppers. Add the lemon from the marinade, sprinkle with a good pinch more of cumin, then place the cabbage leaves over the top. Add 100ml of water to the marinade and pour into the pot.
* Cover and cook gently on the hob for 25-30 minutes.

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FISH TAGINE - Rick Stein

Preparation time less than 30 mins / Cooking time 30 mins to 1 hour / Serves 4

Ingredients
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing
2 celery sticks, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
¼ preserved lemon, finely chopped
4 plum tomatoes, sliced
600ml/1 pint fish stock
8 small new potatoes, cut lengthways into quarters
2 red mullet, ocean perch or grey mullet, weighing about 450g/1lb each, filleted
8 black olives, halved
1 tsp chopped fresh coriander
1 tsp chopped fresh mint
salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the charmoula:
2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1½ tsp ground cumin
½ red finger chilli, seeded and chopped roughly
½ tsp saffron strands
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon, juice only
1½ tsp paprika
1 tsp salt

* For the charmoula, put all the ingredients into a food processor and blend until smooth.
* Heat the oil in a large pan, add the celery, carrot and onion and fry gently for 5 minutes, until softened but not browned.
* Add half the chopped preserved lemon, 2 tbsp of the charmoula, the tomatoes and the stock.
* Bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes, then add the potatoes. Simmer for 6-8 minutes until tender.
* Preheat the grill to high. Brush the fillets of fish with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and then cut each diagonally in half.
* Grill, skin-side up, for about 6 minutes.
* Stir the olives, the rest of the charmoula and the remaining preserved lemon into the sauce and check the seasoning.
* Put the fish in four warmed soup bowls, spoon over the sauce and sprinkle with the chopped coriander and mint.

Note: To make Moroccan preserved lemons, take 4-5 lemons, wash well and cut into 4, but not all the way through. Sprinkle coarse salt into the cuts, close up the lemons and put them in a large jar. Press down, put a weight on top and close the jar. In a few days sufficient juices should be released to cover the lemons. If not, add more lemon juice. Leave for a month before using and use only the skin, discarding the flesh.

Elderflower

Another food favorite of mine in recent years is also very much a taste of home



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Elderflower Cordial
30 heads of elderflower
3 pints of boiling water
200g of caster sugar
3 tbsp of citric acid
2 lemons , cut into quarters

Mix the sugarwith boiling water into a pan , leave to cool for 30 minutes you should be able to dip your finger in easily
Mix in the lemons , citric acid and elderflowers
Leave to cool and strain through a muslin bag ( I use a clean cotton shopping bag)
Place into clean bottles
To serve dilute by half

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Elderflower Syllabub
1/2 pint (280ml) double cream
2 egg whites
1 tbsp white wine
3 tbsp elderflower cordial

Blend the elderflower cordial with the white.
Whisk the cream and stir in the wine and cordial.
Now whisk the egg whites until stiff and fold into the cream.
Spoons the cream into glasses and chill for at least 30 minutes.

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Apple Cake with a difference

2lb (800g) Cox's apples
4 tbsp elderflower cordial
8oz (200g) butter or margarine 8oz
(200g) castor sugar 8ox (200g)
self raising flour
4 eggs

Peel and roughly chop the apples into a large pie dish.
Pour the elderflower cordial over the top.
Make the sponge by creaming together the butter and sugar.
Whisk the eggs and add to the suger and butter mixture.
Fold in the flour and spoon over the apples.
Place in a pre-heated oven at Gas 4 (275F/180C) and bake for 30 minutes until golden and risen.

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Vanilla Ice Cream with Apricot and Elderflower Sauce
(Serves 4)
3-4 scoops of good quality vanilla ice cream
4 Fresh Apricots
75g Castor Sugar
2 tbspns of Elderflower Cordial
3 fl oz of water

Place the apricots into a saucepan with the sugar, Elderflower Cordial and water, bring slowly to a simmer then stir to dissolve the sugar.
Continue to heat until the apricots have cooked and the sauce looks thick, take off the heat and allow to cool.
When cooled, purée until smooth and pour over the ice cream.

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Strawberry and Elderflower Cream Slice
(Serves 4)
1 Pack of frozen Puff Pastry
2 Punnets of fresh Strawberries
1/2 Pint of Cream
4 tbspns of Elderflower Cordial

For the Icing 2 tbspns of Elderflower Cordial 4oz of sieved Icing Sugar

Roll the pastry out into 3 oblongs 12cm x 26cm.
Soak the Strawberries in the Elderflower Cordial for 1/2 an hour.
Whip the cream until firm, then layer the cream on the pastry and top with strawberries.
Repeat on the next layer and top with the third sheet of pastry.
To make the icing, sieve the icing sugar and add the Elderflower Cordial, stirring all the time.
Pour over the top of the slice and serve.



Addendum - during the Middle Ages, the English believed the elderberry tree to have mystical abilities and that to have these trees on one's property meant good blessing. The medicinal value of the elderberry goes back to the 5th century BC and is mentioned in the writings of Hippocrates, Dioscurides and Plinius.

Top Chef

Very disappointing end to Top Chef on Wednesday. I didn't think any of the three finalists meals were that exciting. Also sad to see Richard tank it right at the end. He was clearly a shoe-in for winner from episode one. However it was a huge relief that moan of the season Lisa didn't win. Just speaking visually (since there's no way to taste or smell through the TV) the best looking dish for me came from the winner Stephanie Izard.



Sauteed Red Snapper Filet
with Truffled White Asparagus and Clam Broth
Prep Time: two hours / Serves: 4-5

1/2 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 shallots, chopped
1 lb clams
Drizzle of white wine
Water for simmering
1/2 bunch white asparagus
A splash of cream
Drizzle of truffle oil
1/2 lb fingerling potatoes
1 lb red snapper
Drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil

Garnishes:
Salad of shaved green asparagus with salt, pepper, herbs and extra-virgin olive oil.

Saute onion, garlic and shallots. Add clams with white wine and steam until opened. Cover with water and simmer for 40 minutes. Saute white asparagus deglaze with white wine. Cover with strained clam broth and simmer until tender. Blend until smooth and add cream. Strain through chinois and drizzle with truffle oil before serving. Meanwhile, roast fingerling potatoes.

Saute snapper in olive oil until nicely browned. Serve over sauteed white asparagus and roasted fingerling potatoes. Pour clam broth and garnish with salad of shaved green asparagus.

Elderflower Jelly with Honeydew Melon

Serves: 6 / Active Time: 20 min / Start to finish: 8.5 hours (includes chilling)

3 cups orange Muscat wine (750 ml)
2/3 cup sugar
3 (3-inch) strips orange zest
2 cups water, divided
2 (1/4-oz) envelopes unflavored gelatin (about 5 teaspoons)
3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon white elderflower syrup (not cordial)
1/2 honeydew melon
equipment: a small melon-ball cutter (preferably 3/8 inch)

Simmer wine, sugar, and zest in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan, stirring occasionally, 4 minutes.
Meanwhile, put 1 cup water in a small bowl and sprinkle with gelatin. Let gelatin stand 1 minute to soften.
Discard zest from wine mixture, then add gelatin mixture and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, just until gelatin has dissolved. Remove from heat and stir in elderflower syrup and remaining cup water. Pour into a 13- by 9-inch glass baking dish and chill, covered, until softly set, at least 8 hours.
Scoop melon balls with cutter and divide among glasses. Cut jelly into squares and serve over melon.

Note: Jelly can be chilled up to 5 days.

Black Cod w/ Mushrooms & Sansho Pepper

Serves: 6 / Active time: 15 minutes/ Start to finish: 30 minutes

FOR BROTH
1 cup water
6 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
1/8 teaspoon ground sansho pepper (sometimes labeled “sansyo”), plus additional for sprinkling, or 1 teaspoon whole Sichuan peppercorns
1 shallot, sliced
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, divided
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
7 oz fresh enoki mushrooms, cut into 3-inch lengths and spongy base discarded
5 oz fresh shimeji mushrooms (sometimes called beech mushrooms), spongy base discarded

FOR FISH
6 (6-oz) pieces black cod fillet with skin
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
Garnish: thinly sliced scallion greens

MAKE BROTH:
Bring water, soy sauce, mirin, sansho pepper, shallot, and one third of garlic to a boil in a 1- to 2-quart heavy saucepan, then simmer 5 minutes. Let broth stand off heat 10 minutes.
Cook remaining garlic in oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring, until just golden. Add all mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 3 minutes.
Strain broth through a fine-mesh sieve into mushroom mixture, discarding solids, and simmer 1 minute.

SAUTÉ FISH:
Pat fish dry and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then sauté fish, skin side down, turning once, until golden brown, just starting to flake, and just cooked through, about 10 minutes.
Transfer fish to shallow bowls. Reheat broth and divide among bowls, then sprinkle very lightly with more sansho pepper (if using).

Note: Broth can be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered (once cool). Gently reheat before using.

Avocado and Watercress Salad

Serves: 6 / Active Time: 15 Minutes

1/4 cup rice vinegar (not seasoned)
1 tablespoon grated sweet onion such as Vidalia or Walla Walla (use large holes of a box grater)
1/4 cup finely grated peeled Gala apple (use small holes of box grater)
4 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 cups watercress (thin stems and leaves only; from 1 large bunch)
1 firm-ripe avocado

Stir together vinegar, onion, apple, soy sauce, and sugar until sugar has dissolved, then stir in oil.

Just before serving, toss watercress with enough dressing to coat. Quarter, pit, and peel avocado, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Gently toss with watercress.

Note:
Watercress can be trimmed 1 day ahead and chilled in a sealed bag lined with damp paper towels.
Dressing can be made 2 days ahead and chilled, covered. Stir or shake before using.

From Paris

"Delicious!"
When I hear this from people with their mouths full of my pastries and a smile on their face,
I would always say: "Good, but I can do even better!"
This is a motto of my everyday life.
Sadaharu Aoki



J is a darling and brought me back two boxes of delight from Sadaharu Aoki's store in Paris. An amazing gift box full of three flavoured cakes, two flavoured florentines, sablé breton, chocolate sablé, hazelnut sablé, chocolate orange slice, tuiles coco, marrons glacés and a smaller box of chocolates each presented in a different color (see photo above). I have wanted to try Aoki's pastries for a couple of years now so this was a special treat.

The first and most striking thing about the products was the presentation. The white box with silver and grey writing and silver string had the allure of a Tiffany's blue box - fetishistic magic in other words. You just know something fantastic is inside from the get-go. Unsurprisingly the insides were magical. Subtle and delicate flavors, the over-riding aspect being a lightness of touch.

Aoki has made an international reputation for himself by combining Japanese flavors with French techniques.

I like to create simple things, but it is the most difficult thing to do, since simple things cannot be manipulated. Sadaharu Aoki

For those who can't make it Paris or don't have lovely friends like J to bring you something back - here is a recipe from Aoki-san - roughly translated from the French



Financier with green tea
Makes 20 Financiers
Prepartion time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes

* 45g egg white
* 50g powdered sugar
* 5 g of glucose or honey
* 45g clarified butter
* 25g powdered almond
* 25g hazel nut powder
* 15g flour
* 2g matcha green tea powder
* black sesame seeds
* white sesame seeds
* guerande sea salt

A mold with 20 slots - 3 x 5cm each

1. Preheat oven to 180 degrees C
2. Mix the egg white and sugar without making a foam. Add glucose or honey.
3. In a strainer, filter the powdered almond, hazel nut powder and matcha green tea powder - incorporate into the mixture without adding air
4. Heat butter to 80 degrees C, add to mix and emulsify as you would a mayonnaise. Heat the mixture in a microwave. You want to get the temperature of the mix to 40 degress C.
5. Fill the moulds with the paste (the temperature of the mix should now be 30 degrees C). Sprinkle with white sesame, black sesame and sea salt. Put in oven for 12 to 15 minutes. Best served cold.

Aoki has three stores in Paris and one two in Tokyo - here's a picture of him in his store in Paris. I look forward to visiting the store in person this fall.

Yorkshire Pudding

It's National Yorkshire Pudding day in the UK.



here's a great selection of different Yorkshire Pudding Recipes including the classic one and some more unusual takes. And NO it's not a PUDDING the way Americans use the word. It's a savory accompaniment to to traditional English Sunday dinner of Roast Beef, Lamb or Chicken with gravy. Essential food for a Yorkshireman like myself.

Simmered Mackrel in grated Daikon

Serves 4

4 pieces mackerel (150-200g each)
300g daikon (Japanese radish)
1/3 tsp salt
2 chives (chopped)
3 tbsp mirin
some plain flour
vegetable oil for deep-frying
1/3 tsp salt
150ml dashi (Japanese stock)
3 tbsp soy sauce

* Rub salt onto the mackerel and leave for 10 minutes. Grate the daikon and drain lightly.
* Coat the mackerel with the flour thinly and deep-fry until browned.
* Place the mirin in a pan and bring to the boil. Add the dashi stock and bring to the boil again. Then add the mackerel and simmer for a few minutes. Sprinkle the daikon on top and remove from the heat.
* Serve with the broth. Garnish with the chives.

Sautéed Trout with Citrus-Olive Relish

Sautéed Trout with Citrus-Olive Relish
TOTAL TIME: 25 MIN
SERVES: 4

INGREDIENTS
2 navel oranges
1 small lemon
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/4 cup pitted green olives, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Four 6-ounce trout fillets, skinned
All-purpose flour, for dusting

DIRECTIONS
Using a sharp knife, peel the bitter white pith from the oranges and lemon; be sure to remove all of the pith. Working over a bowl, cut in between the membranes to release the sections. Add the grated orange and lemon zests, olives, parsley, garlic, olive oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper and toss gently.
In a large nonstick skillet, heat the vegetable oil. Season the trout fillets with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Add the trout to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat until browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn the fillets, reduce the heat to moderate and cook until just white throughout, about 3 minutes. Transfer the fillets to plates or a platter, spoon the relish on top and serve.

SERVE WITH Quinoa salad.
NOTES One Serving: 479 cal, 30 gm fat, 4.6 gm sat fat, 16 gm carb, 2.9 gm fiber.

Andean Quinoa Salad
MAKE-AHEAD
SERVES: 4

INGREDIENTS
1 cup quinoa (about 7 ounces)
2 cups water
Salt
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
3/4 cup finely diced bell peppers, preferably a mix of green, red and yellow
1/2 medium cucumber-peeled, seeded and finely diced
2 tablespoons finely chopped mint
1 tablespoon minced jalapeño
1 scallion, minced
Freshly ground pepper

DIRECTIONS
In a medium bowl, rinse the quinoa under cold running water for 2 minutes; drain. Transfer the quinoa to a medium saucepan, add the water and 1/2 teaspoon of salt and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat until the water is absorbed and the quinoa is tender, about 17 minutes. Spread the quinoa on a baking sheet and let cool completely.
In a medium bowl, mix together the oil and lime juice. Add the bell peppers, cucumber, mint, jalapeño, scallion and quinoa and toss. Season the salad with salt and pepper and serve at room temperature or chilled.

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